Unexpected adventures in SZ

Before arriving in Shenzhen, I braced myself for a city of relentless concrete and glass — a hyper-modern metropolis where nature and tradition had been lost to modernity. But, as I soon discovered, its soul reveals itself slowly in pockets of creativity, nature, and warmth that defy expectations.

Late night escape to Wutong Mountain

One of my first forays beyond my comfort zone came courtesy of some local acquaintances. At 10 p.m. on a hot, humid summer night, I found myself clinging to the back of a moped — a first for me — heading towards Wutong Mountain. Locals had insisted I see the mountain, but I hadn’t imagined a late-night joyride.

First we zipped through quiet backstreets, the city lights blurring into streaks, and then along a river, where the air finally cooled. The mountain itself, which was shrouded in darkness when we reached it, was marked by a grand, imposing gate — a traditional Chinese structure adorned with intricate phoenix patterns.

We didn’t hike — we sat on stone steps sipping milk tea, chatting, and listening to cicadas. In a city that never sleeps, this quiet corner felt like a shared secret.

Art and soul in Dafen

Another unexpected discovery came in the form of Dafen Oil Painting Village, a place I’d heard of before coming to China. I’d expected assembly-line replicas but instead found studios buzzing with passion and originality — a vibrant labyrinth of narrow streets overflowing with creative energy.

Some shops were large galleries showcasing polished works while others were cluttered workshops filled with the scent of paint and evidence of artistic struggle. The artists themselves were remarkably approachable, eager to talk about their work, inspirations, and aspirations.

I’ve bought two paintings there so far — one a bold, semi-abstract depiction of a bull, its colors vibrant and powerful, and the other an abstract composition of greens, reds, and yellows that evokes a feeling of both calm and exhilaration. Dafen is more than just a place to buy art — it’s a place to connect with artists and witness their passion.

Nature in Qiushuishan Park

Shenzhen’s surprises aren’t limited to the cultural realm. Only a 30 minute walk from my apartment, I can lose myself in nature. A recent hike in Qiushuishan Park proved this point perfectly. The climb was steep and sweat-drenched but worth every step. At the summit, a modern plaza glowed with reed-like lights. Beyond them stretched emerald valleys and a sprawling reservoir.

Night markets and sweets

From mountain trails to bustling streets, Shenzhen’s contrasts extend into its urban fabric. Back in my neighborhood, the local night market hums with life. Stalls overflow with tempting food, but my favorite discovery so far is double-skinned milk — a delicate, understated Cantonese dessert. Across from the night market in a square, groups of women gather for their nightly square-dancing exercise. It’s a scene of joyful, uninhibited community — a reminder that even in the most modern of cities, people find ways to connect and celebrate.

These experiences, seemingly small in the grand scheme of things, have reshaped my understanding of Shenzhen. Its charm lies in its contradictions — a place where the hyper-modern and the deeply traditional coexist and where fleeting encounters can blossom into meaningful connections and exchanges.

(Zach Mills is an editor of Shenzhen Daily and a host for EyeShenzhen videos.)